Catlins Day two
Wednesday, January 8th
We said goodbye to our great little house where the boys managed to have a respite from each other, We ended up having to apologise for being good Aucklanders and separating our recycling, as it all being seen as just rubbish.
Plan one was to go to Curio Bay to see what the curiosity was about. We knew we couldn’t see the petrified forest, but we found a vantage point that showed off high-ish tide moody and voluminous crashing waves against rocks. There was a cafe there with slow service and adequate coffee, clean toilets and that was about all we needed from the point. To the falls!
There are many waterfalls in the Catlins, but the one of the must dos on multiple lists was McLean Falls. The word spectacular was even used. After all the rain it seemed like it would be a sight to see. The walk was lovely, mostly in bush, but over slippery and steep rocks towards the end. I got up to the top of the walk, and then boys being boys they had to get to the top of the top and get the advantage of each vantage point. All I saw were more slippery rocks and boys climbing and couldn’t watch. I didn’t feel confident going down though on the sleep and slippery steps without any support on the sides………
Jonty helped me down and we had a good chat about our reflections on the whole trip and favourite things. A surprising flushing DoC toilet at the end, which had me wondering where all the waste went to……..was a welcome relief. Then we were off again. To Okawa. Research showed that many things were going to be closed since it’s early in the week. We saw the Catlins Country Stop - tagged “New Zealand’s BEST souvenir shop”. Well, we are always looking for more mementos for the wreath. What a great stop. A new hat for Davie, and an excellent host who gave out a number of recommendations to all who asked.
He asked what we’d seen, and which way we were heading and strongly encouraged us to go to Nugget Point to the lighthouse. Seeing a lighthouse seemed quite a lame suggestion TBH, so we had discounted it. But he said we couldn’t miss it and since we were heading that way, lunch at the Kaka Point restaurant and bar would be a great idea. Well, we had learnt to listen to suggestions and recommendations, so we trusted his word.
However, the recommendation from a non-coeliac as to what is gluten free for sure isn’t necessarily the best one to pick. The menu had many a GF label, but very few things were actually gluten free and I got just a salad with no accompaniments and the seafood platter came sadly underwhelmingly empty of its usual abundance. The boys laughed at me, heck we all laughed at each other. I felt duped and ripped off, and just a little hungry. But there was no other option, so we ate all we could, right down to the garnishing.
Then off to the lighthouse. As far as lighthouses go, it’s not a very stunning one. I didn't even take my phone as I figured 'what is there even to take photos of?' I almost couldn’t be bothered going up to it to see it’s blandness up close. I am so glad I did. It’s not the lighthouse, it’s Nugget Point itself that is stunning. The Southern Ocean in all its spectacular colours and force pounding on the small islands. It was the seals and the birds, the caves and the waves - it was such a dynamic and interesting scene we all stood mesmerised for ages.
We wrenched ourselves away and headed back to Dunedin. All the good gf cafes on the way had long since closed. A quick stop at paknsave for icing sugar to use up the butter and redeem the weetbix slice made that morning so as to use up most of the baking ingredients. Then we were back at the Woodlands, in a different room with steep and mildly dodgy stairs.
Burger Fuel for dinner. Little progress made on the blog re Stewart Island adventures. Final sleep in the South Island.

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